Panel saws
Panel saws
EXPERT KNOWLEDGE PANEL SAW
Advantages of panel saws
In a backsaw, the blade is stiffened by a rigid spine. A panel saw, by contrast, relies on a thicker blade and does not require a reinforcing back. This results in several key advantages:
- rigid blade without a spine; allows unlimited depth of cut and long, straight cuts
- designed for push-stroke cutting; the familiar working method of Western saws
- set teeth; the cut can be corrected more easily
- ergonomically shaped handle; reduces strain on the wrist
- easy to resharpen; can be sharpened with standard triangular saw files
- available in a wide range of sizes and tooth patterns
Choosing the right panel saw
Traditionally, panel saws were primarily used for coarse work, such as rough cutting to length. In the Anglo-American world, however, these saws have also become established for precise work when fitted with an appropriate tooth pattern.
Tooth spacing is typically specified in tpi (teeth per inch) or ppi (points per inch). We offer saws with a range of tooth patterns and geometries.
A special feature of our Turbo-Cut saws is their tooth geometry: while primarily designed for push-stroke cutting, they are also capable of cutting on the pull stroke thanks to a specially ground opposing bevel, producing a cutting action similar to that of a Japanese saw.
How to hold a panel saw correctly
Most panel saw handles are designed to be held with three fingers.
Many users initially find the handle too small or insufficiently ergonomic. In most cases, this is due to incorrect grip technique. For efficient cutting and better control, hold the saw with three fingers, while the index finger is extended along the top edge of the blade, pointing in the direction of the cut.
Trimming boards with a panel saw
Trimming a board with a panel saw on a sawbench.
For trimming (ripping) boards, place the workpiece on a sawbench or sawhorse. These are lower than a workbench, allowing you to use your full body weight. The workpiece is typically stabilised with the knee.
Start by making a shallow guiding cut with the saw held at a low angle, then raise the saw to a steeper angle to continue cutting through the material.
Sawing is carried out with a pendulum-like motion: the blade is slightly inclined during the cutting stroke (downward movement) and nearly vertical on the return stroke. These movements alternate continuously.
Can panel saws be resharpened?
Levelling the saw teeth to a uniform height.
Most panel saws can be resharpened in the workshop. This requires a through-hardened blade with appropriately hardened teeth. If only the tooth tips are hardened, they are more prone to chipping.
Only a few steps are required to restore a dull saw:
1. Jointing
The tooth tips are brought to a uniform height using a flat file without a handle. If the teeth were uneven beforehand, small flats will remain on the tips after jointing. To make sharpening progress clearly visible, mark the entire tooth line with a marker.
A simple, homemade filing guide helps maintain consistent angles.
2. Sharpening
You can either sharpen the entire tooth line from one side, or file every second tooth from one side first, then turn the saw and sharpen the teeth in between.
When filing all teeth from one side, only the fleam angle needs to be adjusted for crosscut teeth. When filing from both sides, both the fleam and the rake angle must be adjusted. Repeat this process until all tooth tips are sharp again.
The blade is always deburred opposite to the cutting direction.
Typical angle combinations for different cutting directions:
Tooth pattern | Rake | Fleam |
| Rip | 4° | 0° |
| Crosscut | 15° | 20° |
| Hybrid | 10° | 15° |
To determine existing angles, place a saw file in the gullets and measure the rake and fleam angles using a protractor.
3. Deburring and fine-tuning
Deburr both sides of the blade using a sharpening stone or diamond plate. Pass the stone once lightly along the tooth line on each side, always from the handle towards the tip of the saw.
4. Setting the teeth
If the saw still has sufficient set, no further action is required. After five to ten sharpening cycles, however, the teeth should be reset. This is usually done before the final filing pass, once all teeth have been brought to a uniform height and the flats on the tips have almost disappeared. Suitable saw sets can be found here.
A compact guide to sharpening handsaws can be found in our tool knowledge blog, or by attending one of our sharpening courses.
