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Pruning saws

For nature-friendly tree pruning.

Professional Japanese pruning saws make an important contribution to the preservation and care of commercial and ornamental trees. Clean branch cuts made with a sharp Japanese saw prove to be more resistant to fungal and bacterial infestation. In contrast to widely available cheap products of mediocre quality, all our pruning saws are manufactured in Japanese master workshops. Their teeth are razor-sharp and the blade surfaces are hard chrome-plated (rustproof). The tooth tip hardening gives them an extremely long service life and breaking strength.

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Pruning saws

EXPERT KNOWLEDGE BRANCH SAWS

Japanese saws for the garden

Features of a Japanese pruning saw selected by DICTUM

Professional Japanese pruning saws make an important contribution to the preservation and care of commercial and ornamental trees. Clean branch cuts made with a sharp Japanese saw prove to be more resistant to fungal and bacterial infestation.


Rust protection and friction reduction thanks to state-of-the-art thin-layer technology (cheap saws are usually only painted, which increases friction in the kerf).

  • Perfect deburring of the toothing for low cutting forces
  • Backlash-free blade fixation for a smooth, chatter-free cut
  • Impulse-hardened tooth tips for long-lasting sharpness
  • Trapezoidal toothing. Preferred for cuts across the grain. The teeth with alternate bevels and three cutting bevels each cut the wood fibres razor-sharp and leave very clean surfaces.
  • Ergonomically shaped handles for fatigue-free work

Supporting wound healing when pruning fruit trees

If a branch is cut from a tree, a relatively large wound is created on the trunk. The tree tries to close this wound with a special wound tissue. The larger the wound, the rougher the cut surface and the younger the tree, the longer this healing process takes. Sizeable wounds often take several years. During this time, the part of the cut surface that has not yet been over-walled is defencelessly exposed to attack by wood-destroying fungi or pests. Fruit trees are particularly susceptible.


  1. Use the right Saws. The larger the set (bending of the saw teeth alternately to the right and left) of a saw, the larger the grooves on the cut surface. This increases the contact surface and water can collect in the grooves, which later leads to rotting. Saws with a low set or unset saws are therefore suitable for pruning fruit trees (see fruit tree pruning pictogram).
  2. The branch should be cut on the branch ring. In technical jargon, "cutting on the branch ring" means not cutting the branch completely flush with the trunk, but leaving the base of the branch standing. The tissue is particularly active here. However, no branch stumps should be left on the trunk, as these make wound adhesion more difficult or even prevent it.
  3. Especially with winter pruning, the tree finds it more difficult to close the cuts with wound tissue. It is recommended that special wound closure agents are applied to the cut areas in the form of tree wax or wax tar.

In-house development and manufacturing

we develop, manufacture and continually refine our tools to meet the highest standards

Quality checked at every stage

steel analysis and hardness testing in our own laboratory, complemented by expert inspection of function and workmanship

Over 175 years of craft expertise

Since 1848, we have brought together knowledge, tradition and exceptional tools from around the world

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