EXPERT KNOWLEDGE RAZORS

History of Razors

The Razors as we know it today developed in the 17th and 18th centuries. Production of razors was particularly refined in France and England. The industrial revolution in the 19th century saw significant advances in metal processing, which further improved the quality and availability of razors. Companies from Solingen, and later the French-based manufacturer Thiers Issard, became known worldwide for their high-quality blades.

Wet shaving remained the predominant method of beard care until the early 20th century. It was only with the introduction of the safety razor by King Camp Gillette in 1901 that shaving culture began to change. The safety razor allowed for an easier and safer shave without requiring the sharpness and precision of a razor and the corresponding manual dexterity.

Despite the proliferation of modern razors and electric devices, the Razors has never lost its appeal. On the contrary: in recent years, wet shaving has experienced a renaissance. Men appreciate the ritualised care, precision and stylish heritage associated with the Razors. Today, wet shaving stands for craftsmanship, mindfulness and a conscious approach to one's own body.

Razors - Design and grind types

Everything in the handle

Ergonomics, Material and balance are important when it comes to the handle of a razor. An ergonomically shaped handle sits securely and comfortably in the hand, which is important for precise handling. High-quality materials such as wood, horn or plastic ensure durability and a pleasant feel. The handle should also be well-balanced to make it easier to control the Razors and allow it to be guided evenly. With classic razors, the blade disappears into the handle when the razor is not in use. This design protects the blade and prevents injuries. The handle acts as a protective sheath into which the blade is folded. This is not the case with a fixed blade or interchangeable blade Razors.

The different head shapes of Razors: Which one suits you?

Choosing the right head shape for a razor is crucial for the precision and handling of the shave. Each head shape offers certain advantages and is suitable for different shaving techniques and skin types. Here is an overview of the most important head shapes:

Round head:

The round head (also round head) has a gently rounded tip.

Advantages: This head shape is particularly suitable for beginners, as the rounded tip minimises the risk of cuts. The round head is ideal for shaving large areas of the face or neck.

Disadvantages: Less precise for detailed work such as shaving around beard contours or in narrow areas.

Square head (Square Point):

With the square head, the blade is straight and the tip shapes a sharp 90° angle.

Advantages: The sharp corner enables precise work on edges such as trimming beards or shaving in hard-to-reach areas (e.g. under the nose).

Disadvantages: Higher risk of cuts, especially for inexperienced users, as the sharp point is very precise but also less forgiving.

French head (French point):

The French head has a curved, slightly pointed shape reminiscent of a quarter circle.

Advantages: Similar to the straight head, it offers good control in difficult areas, but with a less sharp point. This makes handling a little safer.

Disadvantages: It still requires some practice, as the pointed shape requires the blade to be guided precisely.

Spanish head (Spanish point):

The Spanish head has a slightly concave indentation at the tip, which shapes a sharp but fine edge.

Advantages: Provides precise control and a sharp point for detail work, while the concave shape reduces the risk of injury somewhat.

Disadvantages: This head also requires experience, as the pointed shape can cause cuts if not guided carefully.

Which head shape suits you?

Beginners should favour a round-headed razor as they are safer and easier to handle.

Advanced users and users who want to shave precise contours will benefit from a straight or French head as they offer more control and accuracy.

Professionals or experienced users looking for a blend of precision and safety may prefer the Spanish head.

Choosing the right head shape depends on your level of experience and shaving preferences.

Blade width specifications for Razors

The blade widths of razors are traditionally given in inches.

A 3/8" razor is a rather small razor that is used, for example, by hairdressers to shave out the neck area or for areas of the body that are not very rounded.

Most razors are available in 4/8", 5/8" and 6/8"; these are the ideal sizes for shaving. 7/8" and 8/8" require special experience, while beginners should start with 4/8" or 5/8". Size should always be based on the size of your hand and face. The 5/8" and 6/8" widths are the most common widths for shaving beards and are preferably suitable for the chin and cheek areas.

Barbers usually use razors with interchangeable blades, as these offer a hygienic alternative to razors without interchangeable blades. The razor blades are replaced after each use, so the razor is quickly ready for a precise shave without the blade having to be sharpened regularly.

The different grinds of Razors

Choosing the right razors can make the difference between a good shave and an outstanding one.

Here are the most important types of grind and their characteristics:

Flat grind (Rough grind):

The Flat or coarse grind is the most traditional grind. Here, the cutting edge of the razor is sharpened at an even angle without creating a hollow shape.

Advantages: It provides a robust cutting edge that is well suited for heavy, daily use.

Disadvantages: Less flexible, can produce a slightly rougher shave pattern.

Semi hollow ground:

The semi hollow grind has a partially hollow ground cutting edge that offers a blend of flexibility and stability.

Advantages: It allows for a more precise fit to skin contours and is versatile enough for different skin types and beard growths.

Disadvantages: Can be a little more difficult for beginners to handle.

Full hollow cut:

With a full hollow grind, the blade is completely hollow ground, creating a very thin, flexible cutting edge.

Advantages: Provides an exceptionally smooth shave and can adapt perfectly to the contours of the skin. Ideal for a particularly close and comfortable shave.

Disadvantages: Requires regular maintenance and sharpening as the cutting edge is more sensitive and can dull more quickly.

The grind of a Razors directly influences the quality of the shave and the amount of care required. While the full hollow grind ensures a particularly smooth shave, the semi-hollow grind offers a good balance between flexibility and durability. The flat grind is ideal for robust use. Choosing the right cut depends on your personal preferences and skin type. A precise choice can significantly improve your shaving experience.

Sharpening and polishing razors

Many paths lead to the goal:

When it comes to sharpening, opinions are often divided - what is good for one person is not necessarily the perfect solution for another. We would like to give you a general recommendation from our side:

For a blade that needs to be restored:

As a general rule, a blade to be restored should be dressed on a whetstone. We recommend our Shapton stones for this purpose. The ceramic bond makes the stones harder than water stones and ideal for the fine sharpening of razors due to the highest available grits of up to 16,000. Matériau du manche will want to polish the blade further with grinding pastes. After honing on the stone (or stones) to restore the correct cutting geometry, we recommend using Diamond pastes of the following grades in succession: 6 micron, 3 micron, 1 micron and 0.25 micron. These steps are followed by honing with chrome oxide polishing pastes and then honing the Razors without paste.

With a ready-to-use Razors that is still not perfectly sharp:

For beginners, the Thiers-Issard aluminium oxide-based sharpening paste is sufficient to bring a blade to a shaving-ready condition. After the paste, the blade is honed without paste. For professionals, we recommend the following order of use: Bio-Diamond sharpening pastes 6 micron, 3 micron, 1 micron, 0.25 micron, Chromox and finally honing without paste. In addition, for regular maintenance of this Razors every 2 to 3 weeks, use the following in succession: Bio-Diamond 1 micron, Bio-Diamond 0.25 micron, Chromox and, finally, a polishing without paste.

For a Razors that is already in regular use:

We recommend either using a honing belt with Thiers-Issard Polishing pastesbeforeshaving, followed by honing without paste, or, from the start, honing without paste altogether.

Nail test for Razors: how to check sharpness and flexibility

The nail test is a simple method of checking the strength and flexibility of a razor blade. The blade is pressed slightly flat against the thumbnail. If the blade visibly curves upwards, this shows that the razor blade is ground thin enough. If this is not the case, the blade can be refined by honing or grinding.

At the same time, the burr of the blade can be checked during the nail test. To detect the smallest irregularities, carefully run your thumbnail along the cutting edge without applying pressure. If the blade sticks in certain places, this indicates damage to the burr. These points often have to be checked several times, as tiny fractures in the burr can only occur after the first feel.

Hair test for Razors: A test for ultimate sharpness

In addition to the nail test, the hair test is a tried and tested method for testing the sharpness of a Razors. This involves holding a single hair by the root and carefully bringing it to the cutting edge of the Razors. A perfectly sharpened razor should cut through the hair effortlessly without having to apply pressure. If the hair is cut by a light touch of the blade, this is a sign of extreme sharpness.

Important notes on the hair sample:

The hair test should ideally be carried out on cleanly washed, dry hair, as oils or moisture can distort the results.

This method not only shows the sharpness, but also the evenness of the cutting edge: If the hair tears or softens at some points on the blade, the cutting edge may be unevenly sharpened at these points.

Conclusion: The hair test is a precise method of checking whether a razor is ready to shave and in optimum condition. A sharp and evenly sharpened blade ensures a particularly smooth and close shave.