Splitting axes
Splitting axes
EXPERT KNOWLEDGE SPLITTING AXES
Buying the right splitting axe
In addition to knowing the steps involved in splitting wood, you need one thing above all else to make the work easy: an axe with proven quality and durability. Some manufacturers have a long tradition in the production of axes and hatchets. Swedish manufacturer Gränsfors Bruks, for example, has been producing high-quality splitting axes for more than 100 years. The same also applies to Hultafors axes, which produced axes in Sweden as early as 1697. Both produce their axes with precisely defined production steps. Each employee masters his individual work step from arbouring to edge sharpening. The splitting axes of our own brand are exclusively hand-forged in small forges in Europe. The blacksmiths usually have decades of experience in the open-die forging of axes. Only experienced blacksmiths can produce high-quality axes using this technique. The blacksmith carries out all the work processes himself and therefore has full control over the final quality of the product.
What is special about a splitting axe?
A splitting axe differs from other axes such as a forestry axe or a universal axe in terms of its weight. Its head weight can be between 2 and almost 3 kg. Its axe head is also optimised for splitting wood. It widens towards the back and has a strongly convex shape. At the same time, the splitting axe has a short cutting edge. The straight handle increases accuracy.
Should it be a splitting axe or a splitting hammer?
Differences between a splitting hammer and a splitting axe: Splitting hammers are even more massive than splitting axes in terms of their Version and Weight. The heavy splitting hammer is ideal if you want to split logs with a large cross-section or knotty, twisted pieces of wood into firewood. A splitting hammer also has a striking surface on the opposite side of the blade, which you can use to drive in splitting wedges for splitting whole logs. Matériau du manche: At the other end of the size scale is the splitting axe, which is intended for further splitting short logs and billets. A splitting axe is usually wielded with one hand and, like a splitting axe, the axe handle is straight, but significantly shorter.
What characterises a high-quality splitting axe?
When buying a splitting axe, consider the following points: how and from which steel was the axe head forged, what wood is the handle made of and how was it attached? A hand-forged axe head is of particularly high quality. Traditional forging techniques such as open-die forging are used. The axe heads produced in this way are as hard as they are wear-resistant and tough. Certain qualities of steel are used, which differ in terms of their carbon content. The higher the carbon content, the higher the hardness that can be achieved. A hardness of 56 to 57 HRC can be achieved with a high-quality C60 carbon steel. Greater hardness is not advisable for this tool type due to the risk of chipping.
Ash, robinia and hickory have proven themselves over generations as materials for high-quality wooden handles. When choosing an axe, make sure that the wood fibres run through the entire length of the handle if possible. Simple handles are sawn and milled from the wood without taking the fibre direction into account. If the fibres run very diagonally through the axe handle, it will break at this point sooner or later. The handle should be made so that it fits comfortably in the hand and you can aim well with it. Special oils or a natural Urushi coating are used to optimally protect the wood. Also important: the handle must sit firmly in the axe house. For high-quality splitting axes, a wooden wedge and at least one additional metal wedge are used for this purpose. A forged iron fitting under the head protects the handle from breakage in the event of mis-hits and also protects it from wear.
How can I split wood safely?
Here are some safety tips to help you cut your firewood safely:
- Wear protective clothing, sturdy shoes and safety goggles.
- The chopping block should be stable and about knee-high.
- Stand with your legs slightly apart from the chopping block so that the axe hits the centre of the block when you strike it.
- The log or billet should stand securely on the chopping block, turn it round if necessary. Never hold it with the other hand!
- With a well-sharpened splitting axe, a firm blow is often enough without swinging the axe over your head.
- If the axe becomes wedged, turn it over together with the piece of wood and hit the chopping block with your neck.
- Logs are a tripping hazard. Stack the logs directly after splitting.
If you find splitting with an axe or hatchet too dangerous, or if you mainly want to split smaller logs, use a manual log splitter, such as a Kindling Cracker.
Alternative, efficient splitting technology without a chopping block
A declared goal when splitting wood should be to only pick up each piece of wood as often as absolutely necessary. Setting up each piece of wood on a chopping block, raising the splitting axe and then splitting it is time-consuming. If certain safety rules are observed, a cut log with 250 or 300 mm pieces can also be split directly on the spot. The technique is similar to that used in golf. The piece of wood to be split is supported by the piece behind it.
- Stable standing surface
- Pay attention to the direction of the blow: To the left or right of the body - never towards the legs
- Sufficient space for flying logs
- Use safety shoes with steel toe caps (preferably boots)
- High concentration when splitting
- Logs lying around are tripping hazards; the logs must be cleared away regularly
- Only work with a sharp splitting axe
Advantages of the method without a chopping block:
Efficiency: as the logs lie directly on the ground, the need to lift each piece of wood several times is reduced. This saves time and energy.
Speed: With the right technique, this method can actually be faster than mechanised splitting, especially for smaller quantities.
Despite the efficiency of this technique, safety should always come first.
