Working on the workbench
When working on the workbench, three aspects need to be considered more closely: The height, the weight and the clamping options are particularly important. In this blog post, we look at these points in detail and provide tips for working on the workbench.
How high should a workbench be?
There is no rule of thumb that can be used to determine the absolutely correct working height of a workbench. A comfortable height depends very much on your personal preferences. The aim should be to be able to work with a straight back at all times. You can determine the minimum height for back-friendly working with hand tools as follows: stand at the workbench with your arms hanging loosely. Ideally, the upper edge of the bench top should be approximately at the height of your wrist. This working height is comfortable for most manual tasks in the workshop and keeps your back straight.
A higher work surface is generally more comfortable when working with machines and for detailed work. If you require a higher working height, this can either be levelled out by placing beams under the workbench or by using a clamp attachment. However, lifting the workbench by placing beams underneath it only works if there is sufficient weight. Light workbenches or multifunction tables slide off the supports when working.
Why should a workbench be heavy?
The heavier, the better! Once again, we are working with hand tools. When planing, chiselling and sawing, the workbench must not move and must be stable. The weight of most workbenches is mainly in the worktop. This should be made so solid that it does not bend even under high loads and can be chiselled and hammered without any problems. Therefore, make sure that a workbench has sufficient stability and weight. Caution: there is no point in screwing a lightweight workbench to the floor or wall, it will still wobble and vibrate.
Tip: If several people are working on the workbench, the height can be adjusted by placing beams underneath it
What clamping options should a workbench offer?
Planing benches must offer suitable clamping options for three different tasks: Surface processing (planing, sanding, etc.), face processing (slotting, tenoning, etc.) and edge processing (jointing, profiling, etc.).
For processing the surfaces, the workpiece is usually clamped between the bench hooks using the rear clamp. Workpieces can also be clamped on the workbench with the help of so-called hold-down clamps, which are inserted into suitable holes in the work surface.
To machine the end faces, the workpiece is usually clamped in the front clamp. It should be noted that front clamps with only one spindle can warp if the workpiece is clamped off-centre. Warping can be avoided by clamping a piece of wood of the same thickness (e.g. a section of the workpiece) on the other side of the front clamp. Some planing benches have one or two equalising screws (abutments) built into the front clamp for this purpose.
Tip: Attach a clamp to the section so that you can simply hang it in the front clamp and have both hands free to clamp the workpiece.
For edge processing , the workpiece is also clamped in the front clamp and supported at the rear, free end. If the workbench also has holes in the front edge of the board, shorter workpieces can be supported with bench hooks or clamped against the edge with hold-down clamps. If you clamp a wooden block in the rear clamp, you can place narrow, long parts on it at the rear end.
Storage space on the workbench
The space underneath the bench top should not be obstructed by storage options such as a permanently installed tool cabinet or drawer. These usually severely restrict the clamping options or even make them completely impossible. A simple board on the crossbars/frames of the frame is perfectly adequate as a temporary storage space for tools and materials. But be careful, dust and all sorts of useless items can quickly accumulate here. The bench drawer that was often installed at the back of the bench top in the past is also unnecessary. The tools and aids stored in it are often in the way when working on the worktop and can damage the workpieces. For the most part, only waste and dirt collects in the bench drawer anyway. There are plenty of alternatives in the workshop to store tools sensibly and within easy reach: Tool cabinets, tool walls, tool trolleys, etc.
Tip: Only the tools you need for the current work step should ever be on the workbench. The rest belongs in a tool box or cabinet, or on a well-organised tool wall.
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Conclusion on working on the workbench
A firm stand and sufficient stability ensure that the workbench does not wobble or vibrate, even when working hard. This requires a solid base frame and high dead weight thanks to a solid bench top. So that you can work ergonomically or with a straight back, the workbench must be the right height and offer various clamping options that allow you to work on the workpieces in different positions. In our online shop, you will find workbenches in different designs, sizes and heights.
